After an extensive renovation, Talesai reopened with Kris Yenbamroong, grandson of the previous cook, as owner-chef. Though he’s kept his grandmother’s refined Thai cooking, he’s also made the menu shorter and more focused and added a modern vibe to the decor. (Lori Shepler / Los Angeles Times)
The West Hollywood spot has been on the same Sunset Strip block for 25 years, drawing music industry insiders and other fans of its homey Thai cooking. (Lori Shepler / Los Angeles Times)
Thick slices of house-made sausage lie atop coconut-scented sticky rice. (Lori Shepler / Los Angeles Times)
The updated Talesai includes an expanded wine list with about 10 wines by the glass, and, by the bottle, the Champagnes, Rieslings, Grüner Veltliners and Sauvignon Blancs that work so well with Thai food (Lori Shepler / Los Angeles Times)
The salmon comes steamed in a banana leaf, which helps the spices penetrate deeper. (Lori Shepler / Los Angeles Times)
The Hidden Treasures appetizer holds chile-fired bites of crab, shrimp and calamari sweetened with coconut and served in the special dish in which theyre baked, each with a tiny dome over the top. (Lori Shepler / Los Angeles Times)
The shredded green papaya salad is dressed with lime juice and decorated with halved cherry tomatoes for contrasting color. (Lori Shepler / Los Angeles Times)
Artwork on display in the dining room will eventually be hung from the ceiling. Other new touches include a colorful mural in the bar, a glassed-in wine storage area and a big picture window in the front. (Lori Shepler / Los Angeles Times)