Something’s fishy in the state of beauty.
The salmon sperm facial is shaping up to be the hottest skincare treatment in Hollywood and beyond — thanks partly to stars like Jennifer Aniston, who opened up about her experience with the slimy-sounding service in a WSJ. Magazine interview last year.
“I said, ‘Are you serious? How do you get salmon’s sperm?’” Aniston — who said she’ll “try almost anything once” in the pursuit of looking young — recalled asking the aesthetician who recommended the treatment.
What in the world is a salmon sperm facial?
Should your interest be similarly piqued, fear not: This facial doesn’t involve slathering your face with actual fish semen. Instead, it revolves around an ingredient called Rejuran, which harnesses the power of polydeoxyribonucleotides (or PDRN, because that’s a mouthful) derived from salmon DNA to “help with skin texture, skin hydration and glow,” as board-certified New York City dermatologist Dr. Dendy Engelman tells Page Six Style.
“They take the DNA and hydrolyze it — meaning, break it up into little particles — and that’s what we’re putting on the face,” Engelman adds. “Why salmon? It’s actually 97% bioidentical [to] the DNA of humans.”
It’s not just Aniston who’s given the unique treatment a try; Kim Kardashian’s also experimented with the fishy facial, revealing on an episode of “The Kardashians” that she’d gotten “salmon sperm injected into [her] face.”
As it turns out, the Skims mogul may have received the service in South Korea, where it originated more than a decade ago; there (and in many other countries outside of the US), the salmon-derived polynucleotides are actually injected into the skin, much like fillers.
Since injectable PDRN isn’t FDA-approved, however, stateside dermatologists use it topically in conjunction with microneedling, which creates tiny puncture wounds in the skin to aid in the ingredient’s absorption — or “push in the salmon sperm,” as Aniston put it during a recent “Jimmy Kimmel Live!” appearance.
What are the benefits of polynucleotides?
“It’s really great; it helps to heal the skin more quickly after the procedure,” Engelman tells me of the combination treatment, adding that polynucleotides can boost hydration and improve the complexion’s tone and texture.
“It also helps to stimulate collagen, help with fine lines and wrinkles and give that ‘glass skin’ appearance than everybody’s hoping for.”
How long does it last and how many treatments are necessary to see results?
Engelman recommends a course of three Rejuran treatments (each spaced apart by four weeks) for optimal results, followed by annual ones for maintenance.
That said, patients should see subtler effects starting three to five days after each treatment, with maximum results after a week. So if you’ve got a big event coming up, you’ll want to schedule yours about seven days out.
My honest review
Full disclosure: I’d gotten a few regular microneedling treatments in the past to treat acne scars on my cheeks, so I wasn’t too worried about the pain level of this procedure — that is, until Engelman told me she prefers radiofrequency microneedling, which is said to be both more effective and more uncomfortable.
“It’s totally tolerable,” she promised, applying numbing cream all over my face as I fidgeted nervously in the chair.
Turns out, the doc was right. After removing the lidocaine, Engelman went in with her Exion device, and it felt more or less the same as my past microneedling sessions in terms of the ouch factor: Certainly not relaxing (I even teared up a tad as she treated my upper lip, nose and around my eyes), but definitely manageable.
After stamping each section of my face, Engelman paused to apply Rejuran’s “healing essence” to the area, explaining, “Puncture wounds heal really quickly, so we don’t wait until the end of the procedure to apply the salmon extract.” In other words, you have to lock in all that fishy goodness fast!
Are there any side effects?
When I initially booked the polynucleotide-powered procedure, Engelman and her team had cautioned me that my face might be a bit raw and red immediately afterward. (“It’s not a relaxing spa treatment,” she warned.)
This wasn’t surprising; in the past, I’ve always purposely scheduled microneedling sessions on Fridays, so I could spend the entire weekend holed up at home healing (and hiding). Typically, it’s taken three or four days for my face to look “normal” post-needling.
But this time around, to my shock and delight, the redness completely subsided after the first few hours — likely thanks to the recovery-boosting powers of the Rejuran Engelman had mentioned. As instructed, I left the salmon salve on my skin overnight, skipping my usual evening cleanse so the goop could keep working its magic.
What is post-care like for the treatment?
At Engelman’s instruction, I stopped using my usual retinoid for one week after the procedure (AHAs are also off limits) and avoided makeup for the first 48 hours, sticking to a simple regimen of a gentle cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen.
As mentioned earlier, the derm recommends a full course of three treatments for best results, but I noticed positive changes to my skin’s texture, tone and overall appearance beginning a few days after my first visit.
How much does it cost?
Like most things in life, fish-fueled facial radiance doesn’t come for free: A single Rejuran treatment at Shafer Clinic will set you back $1,800. At other NYC-area clinics, you can expect to pay anywhere from $600 to $2,000.
The final verdict
As for whether it’s worth splashing out that kind of cash? Fighting aging is an uphill (or should I say, upstream) battle, and anyone looking for a quick fix should manage their expectations.
But for those in search of smoother skin and a subtle glow — and with the money to spend, of course — Rejuran works swimmingly.