Matthew McDermott
This year’s crop of luxury watches takes inspiration from decades past, transforming classics into decidedly modern timepieces fit for today’s connoisseur, according to London Jewelers Vice President Zach Udell.
“Watchmaking is about making what’s old new again,” he says.
And Udell should know: He’s part of the fourth generation of the family business, which will welcome aficionados this weekend for its 14th annual Watch Fair. The event will showcase the newest and rarest watches from the world’s top luxury brands — including Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier and Bulgari.
Charles London, Udell’s great-grandfather, started his business in 1926 on Long Island’s Gold Coast, servicing clocks for the “wealthy Long Island set,” including American dynasties such as the Morgans, the Pratts and the Whitneys.
“That was very much the Great Gatsby era,” Udell says of the Art Deco period of architecture, watch and jewelry design. “It doesn’t get any more New York to me than that.”
As for today’s era — the retailer’s watch salon is undergoing a major renovation, including a dedicated space for its enhanced “Rolex Experience.” As those exciting updates are underway, this year’s watch fair will be hosted at London Jeweler’s elegant, temporary space at 1988 Northern Blvd., across from Prada at the Americana Manhasset. There, guests will find watchmakers’ latest and best creations — including limited-edition timepieces usually only available to industry insiders — all under one roof.
Representatives from each watchmaker will be on hand to help clients discover the watch “that speaks to them the most,” Udell says. “Some younger generation collectors want to dig deep into the heritage behind a timepiece, and we love being able to help clients navigate through that.”
Visitors are encouraged to try on the watches, “which is what the watch fair is all about: You go to a jeweler you can trust, and try and feel the watch.” The festivities will also include cigar rolling, fall treats and small bites.
In terms of the watches themselves, Udell says new offerings from Panerai, Tudor, Omega and Piaget also exemplify this year’s old-is-new trend.
With its new Baignoire collection, “Cartier managed an amazing blend of old-world luxury feel with a modern take,” he notes. (The Baignoire, whose French name means “bathtub,” was first introduced in 1912.) “Blending this old-time look and reinventing it in a modern way speaks to a wide range of people across all age groups.”
Rolex’s new platinum version of its 1908 timepiece draws its name from the year of the brand’s founding. The watch’s rice-grain engraved dial and vintage-style hands honor Rolex’s heritage design cues.
Other watches must be seen in person to experience their full effect.
“It’s not possible to get a full read of what the dial looks like until you see how the travel time function actually turns,” Udell says of the new Patek Philippe World Time, whose patented world-first movement synchronizes the date with the local time and whose blue-gray carbon dial matches its strap. “It has a contemporary modern case, but you get a feeling of old and new, and the jean strap will attract every age group.” Patek Philippe’s new Ellipse has also “created a lot of interest and buzz; it’s another example of this neo-vintage resurgence.”
While it’s not neo-vintage, Bulgari’s new Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpetual Calendar watch features the audacious combination of a highly complicated movement (often found in more traditional timepieces) fitted with an ultra-modern carbon case, dial and strap.
Piaget, meanwhile, has reintroduced its iconic Polo collection with reduced case sizes. “It’s nice to see sizes coming down to a bit more of a normalized range,” says Udell. “It blends the old with the new.” That’s certainly been a winning formula for London Jewelers, which will celebrate its centennial in 2026.
With over 270 employees, London Jewelers “still has a mom-and-pop family feel to the degree that we can keep it that way,” Udell says. As one of the last remaining family-owned luxury jewelers, the retailer prides itself on offering exceptional customer service. “If a client has an issue,” he says, “it’s our name on the line.”
— Hyla Bauer
Dainty delights: London Jewelers’ VP Randi Udell Alper says smaller styles are big
Coveted comeback
“The Cartier Baignoire is definitely the hottest watch right now. This mini-model revival style, with its signature oval face, exudes French flair. Women are going back to feminine and slim, and this bangle can make a minimalist statement on its own or fit right in with a stack of other bracelets.”
Just desserts
“I love the new, more petite version of this Rolex — its lush chocolate dial is highlighted with diamonds. It’s quite versatile; the classic gold bracelet moves easily from playtime to party.”
Swanky secret
“This magnificent style from Bulgari does double duty: It’s both luxurious jewelry and a timepiece. Beyond the gold bracelet, the octagonal, ancient coin-set case opens to reveal a stunning pavé diamond-set watch. A major wow!”
Sporty chic
“Some women are looking for something they can wear from tennis through dinner, and the new Aquanaut fits the bill. It’s casual-cool with a blue-gray dial and composite, patterned strap, but gets an elegant touch from the rose-gold case.”
— Anne Bratskeir
Back to the future: London Jewelers’ VP Scott Udell heeds a retro revival
Subtle splendor
“The Patek Golden Ellipse was introduced decades ago, and has always been considered the symbol of true luxury. That still holds true, and this latest style, with its clean sunburst black dial housed in rose gold, features a reinvented, matching chain bracelet. It’s an extraordinary piece that avid collectors covet.”
Haute history
“This was the last design from watchmaker Gérald Charles Genta, one of the most famous watch designers in the world, whose work includes prototypes for many other high-end brands. It’s gained a lot of popularity among athletes and true connoisseurs for its artistry and uniqueness.”
Hero worship
“Nicknamed the ‘Bruce Wayne,’ the Rolex GMT-Master II was a style originally launched in 1982. With its new, understated but handsome black-and-gray bezel, this watch is as versatile as it gets and a true workhorse. Wear it for travel, take it for a swim or out to a fancy dinner.”
Pink power
“This fresh version of Tudor’s Black Bay Chrono celebrates brand ambassadors Jay Chou (the pop star known for his hit “Pink Ocean”) and David Beckham (co-owner of soccer team Inter Miami, which rocks pink jerseys). If you can get your hands on one, it’s a great value for folks who are seeking both quality and something daring.”
— Anne Bratskeir
All at London Jewelers, 1988 Northern Blvd., Manhasset, LI