It was the summer of 2016 and I had decided to book a solo trip to Paris. I had a terrible bout of ennui and thought a weekend eating cheese, drinking wine and wandering along the Seine would be the perfect antidote.
In my haste to escape London, however, I overlooked one rather gigantic detail: France was hosting the Euros and fans from around the world had descended on the City of Light.
The Eurostar was notably dearer, as was my Airbnb, but when booking I had put it down to the time of year – not that a major sporting event was taking place in my chosen destination, at that exact same time.
It was only right before my departure, as I spotted the sea of Ireland flags at St Pancras, that I realised my error.
‘Ah well, it’s too late now!’ I thought, and took the plunge – after all, Paris is always a good idea, right?
Now, most people would have learnt from this mistake and checked to see if any big events were happening before making any future holiday plans. But, alas, I am not most people.
So again, in October last year, I decided to return to the city for a quick getaway. And again, I completely missed that the Rugby World Cup was taking place in Paris at that time.
Now, I’m not going to lie to you and tell you that in both instances I didn’t come across a single sports fan. But what I will tell you is this: there really weren’t as many as I had anticipated and I still very much got to enjoy the city despite all the chaos.
And if reports from locals are anything to go by, the same can be said for Paris during the Olympics.
Footage of Disneyland has been circulating online, showing eerily empty rides and barely any tourists in the park, and restauranteurs in the city have complained that they aren’t getting the desired footfall they had hoped for from the Games.
A restaurant owner in the Latin Quarter told the BBC that July had been ‘catastrophic’ for him and that it was one of the worst months he’s encountered for 25 years.
Hoteliers, meanwhile, grumbled that they ‘didn’t gain anything from the Olympics’, despite slashing their prices to entice tourists.
Indeed, a friend of mine who resides in Paris confirmed that the ‘market is way softer than predicted.’
‘Several pals were unable to rent out their places and prices were well below expectations,’ he explained to me. ‘It was announced years ago and suggested that everything would be booked up and extremely expensive, but it hasn’t materialised.’
Which all begs the question: is now the perfect time to visit Paris?
If you are looking to go this week or you’ve already booked and have no interest in the Games, here are my top tips.
Mosey around Montmartre
It goes without saying that a trip to Paris requires a pitstop in Montmartre, but it’s especially worth the schlep up the hill during major sporting tournaments, as those crowds tend not to head that way.
Whilst there, duck into La Recyclerie – a cool little bar that was once a train station and is made from recycled materials – for a refreshing drink, and be sure to soak up the atmosphere and view from the Sacré-Cœur at sundown.
It is advisable, however, that you avoid the Pigalle area near the Moulin Rouge, as this tends to get pretty packed with drunk tourists post-game.
Soak up some history in the city’s Latin Quarter
Look, it ain’t just Emily Cooper that loves 5th and 6th arrondissement of Paris.
In this neighbourhood, there’s a wealth of culture to soak up – be it in the form of the Panthéon or the famed Shakespeare and Company bookshop on the Left Bank.
And hey, if you really just want to be a basic (or ringarde) b***h – no judgement here, I promise – you can also go to the square where the Netflix hit was filmed, and see everything from Gabriel’s restaurant to the boulangerie where Emily gets her morning pastries from, all ahead of season 4.
Mingle with Parisians in Le Marais
Located in the 4th arrondissement, Le Marais is one of the chicest, prettiest neighbourhoods in the whole of Paris.
In addition to lots of cool coffee shops and eateries, the streets are full of independent boutiques and craft stores – a guaranteed Olympics-free zone.
Indulge in a baked treat (or five)
There are few better things in life than buttery, flaky pastry. And luckily Paris is full of boulangeries and patisseries that serve just that.
Some of my favourite places to hit up in the city include Bo&Mie, Stohrer, Ladurée and Le Pain Retrouvé. Or, if I’m feeling super fancy, Le Comptoir at the Ritz Paris.
And if all else fails… jump on a train to Versailles
In around 30 minutes, visitors can get from Paris to Versailles-Chantiers station – for a reasonable €7.
Simply hop on the RER C train (or the yellow line) and you’ll be transported to the grand suburb that was once home to kings Louis XIV and XVI.
Now, you will likely have to book your tour of the palace in advance, as it gets pretty chocker on the day. But once you have your tickets sorted, you will be able to wander around the ridiculously ornate building and its manicured gardens for the day.
Particular highlights for me included Marie-Antoinette’s Queen’s Hamlet – a quaint (by comparison) thatched-roofed retreat with surrounding lake – and the orangery garden at the back of the palace.
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Versailles really is the perfect spot to while away the time and escape the busyness of the city centre.
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