ROAD TRIP: Hamilton’s scenery, unfussy character worthy of appreciation

Plenty to see, eat and do in gritty city where there’s more than meets the eye

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Hamilton folk-rockers Whitehorse once sang that there’s no glamour in the Hammer.

It’s probably an accurate assessment by the Juno-winning duo about a city that, to celebrate its 125th anniversary back in 1971, published a coffee table book called Pardon My Lunch Bucket.

Steeltown will always be more steel toe than stiletto.

But the city’s industrial backdrop — viewed by many from the Burlington Skyway Bridge on the Queen Elizabeth Highway — doesn’t give passersby the full picture. Far from it.

Within Hamilton’s rugged borders is a place that’s flowing with civic pride and bursting with personality, displayed through distinct, bikeable and walkable neighbourhoods, and thriving arts and food scenes.

Hamilton’s smokestacks aren’t emblematic of its underrated scenic side. It’s known as the waterfall capital of Canada (or the world, depending on who you ask) with more than 100 falls hidden in plain sight throughout the city of some 600,000, which is divided by the Niagara Escarpment and includes neighbouring municipalities Ancaster, Dundas, Flamborough, Glanbrook and Stoney Creek.

We’ll bet dollars to donuts that first-time visitors to Hamilton will find something to their liking, and not just because the city is home to the first Tim Hortons coffee shop — a Hail Mary Pass from where the city’s beloved CFL Tiger-Cats play in the blue-collar east end.

Whether it’s to enjoy fish and chips at Hutch’s on the Beach (those who know, know), rock out at the annual Supercrawl music festival, or hike to the top of Dundas Peak, the options are boundless — and accessible considering the city has three GO Transit stations.

A visit to the Hammer is ideal as a stopover between Toronto and Niagara Falls, a weekend getaway, or simply as a day trip.

“I don’t particularly mind Hamilton being called a lunch-bucket city,” former Hamilton mayor Victor Copps wrote in the foreword to Pardon My Lunch Bucket.

Hamiltonians would agree, understanding that there’s a whole lot more to this town than its steel production while continuing to embrace its reputation as a gritty city, and a fine one at that.

Ben Greco owns Delirious Burger Co., with two locations in Hamilton. IAN SHANTZ/TORONTO SUN
Ben Greco owns Delirious Burger Co., with two locations in Hamilton. IAN SHANTZ/TORONTO SUN

SIMPLY THE BEST

If Hamilton’s food scene could be summed up in a word, it would be this: Unfussy.

Maybe it’s those industrial roots at play, but unpretentious offerings are in abundance. It says here, Hamilton is home to some of the best food and drink in the province, much of it presented with comfort and nostalgia in mind.

Delirious is a laid-back joint that specializes in smash burgers using only fresh ingredients (there’s no freezer on site).

“There’s a time and a place,” Greco said. “If you just want a minimal burger but you’re trying to get the best quality out of it, this is our offering.”

My wife and I appreciated how perfectly constructed and flavourful the Delirious single with bacon and cheese was alongside seriously tasty onion rings. At $7.75 for the 4 oz. burger ($6.10 without the extras), it’s as solid a value as we’ve seen in these difficult economic times.

We’ve been known to be fully willing to go to the ends of the earth for good food and we’ll be making the trip to Hamilton again specifically for these burgers but with the knowledge that it shouldn’t be a one-stop trip.

The Steeltown Garage Co. has great coffee and biker vibes.
The Steeltown Garage Co. has great coffee and biker vibes. IAN SHANTZ/TORONTO SUN

SEE AND DO

Hiking and biking are as synonymous with Hamilton as its one-way streets, but urban exploring can easily be done on foot.

A walking tour of Locke St. doubled as a stroll down memory lane because I lived in this neighbourhood for one short year more than a decade ago and have only fond memories of the area located just on the outskirts of the downtown core.

“It’s the most beautiful shopping and dining district in Hamilton,” Locke Street BIA executive director Tracy MacKinnon said.

The Sheraton Hamilton Hotel has undergone a multi-million-dollar renovation which includes modernizing all the rooms. IAN SHANTZ/TORONTO SUN
The Sheraton Hamilton Hotel has undergone a multi-million-dollar renovation which includes modernizing all the rooms. IAN SHANTZ/TORONTO SUN

SHERATON HAMILTON UNDERGOES MODERNIZATION

The Hamilton Community Peregrine Project operates a webcam that tracks the current pair of falcons and any incoming chicks.

There’s meaningful progress to track inside the Sheraton, too. The downtown hotel is putting the finishing touches on a multimillion-dollar modernization, including upgrades to each room and various public spaces.

“The Sheraton Hamilton is infusing a breath of life within its internal spaces with an essence of natural comfort and calm against the bustle of the industrialization of the town,” general manager Colin Watson said.

Our two-night stay at the property included a club-level king guest room with exclusive access to the club lounge, which featured stunning harbour views and included a complimentary breakfast buffet, snacks and hors d’oeuvres. Marriott Bonvoy members can enjoy exclusive advantages, while non-members can also access the club level and lounge for an additional fee.

Chagall’s, the on-site restaurant, didn’t disappoint. We recommend the Sheraton Burger and top sirloin steak as mains followed by creme brulee for dessert.

The hotel is next to venues such as First Ontario Centre arena and the Art Gallery of Hamilton, making it central and convenient for visitors to the city.

“Hamilton is an amazing destination that will be very pocket-friendly for the summer months,” Watson said, noting the hotel is popular for folks hoping to save some money while visiting nearby Niagara Falls, and visitors from London and Windsor who regularly come in to shop at their closest IKEA, in nearby Burlington.

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