It is unnerving to think that only an hour before the France vs Israel football match in Paris I was in the midst of a protest against it – unsuspecting all the chaos that the UEFA game will bring.
For days, a number of organisations in France – including leftist Jewish movement, Tsedek – had been calling for the cancellation of the event.
For one, it was overshadowed by the context of Israel’s war on multiple fronts in the Middle East.
After the clashes between Maccabi Tel Aviv fans and pro-Palestinian supporters that engulfed Amsterdam last week, there were also major safety concerns to be weighed up too.
Getting closer to Stade de France, where the game is to take place, I witness first hand the special security measures promised by Paris authorities.
At least half a mile before the stadium, all roads have been cordoned off and no cars are being allowed through, reminding me of the policing operation when I covered the 2024 Olympic Games.
After an argument with a police officer over the closures, my Uber drops me off as close as possible, but I still have to walk for 15-20 minutes to get there.
I am joined by a few dozen people. Once I arrive at the gates, I am searched three times and there is a debate between staff if my 50ml perfume bottle is allowed in.
Entering the stadium, I can see that the French boycott of the event is in full force – only about a sixth of the stadium is full, and entire rows of seats near the pitch are shut to fans.
Anti-intrusion grilles are raised and there are dozens of stewards keeping watch in case of skirmishes in the crowd.
I am sat just a few metres from the pitch – row 12, seat 16. Surrounding me are fans of both France and Israel.
On the right, the top stands are filled with supporters of Israel, who have arrived prepared with dozens of flags.
It is off to a bad start. There are whistles and boos as the Israeli anthem played at the beginning of the ‘very high risk’ game.
Within 15 minutes into the match, I see a group of about 100 Israeli supporters jump the barriers into an area filled with their French hosts.
Fans wrapped with blue Star of David flags charged towards their rivals, forcing the entire stadium to turn away from the ongoing game.
A cordon of about a dozen stewards race to avert any skirmishes that could ignite a much bigger incident in an already tense environment. It was unclear what had triggered the melee.
A crisis seems to have been averted but for the rest of the event, two rows of 10 stewards remain guarding the empty stands separating the rival fans.
Throughout the game, Israeli supporters continue to wave yellow balloons and to chant ‘Free the Hostages’ in reference to Israelis held in Gaza by Hamas militants.
Additional security officers are deployed before half-time and again just before the 90th minute of the game, which ended 0-0.
Exiting the stadium, I am mindful of potential clashes between fans outside. There are rows and rows of armed police guards standing firm in case of skirmishes.
The crowd splits in several direction, with several groups of Israeli fans stopping to give interviews to French broadcasters.
On the way to my hotel, I pass by Place de la République, a square in Paris where pro-Palestinian and Israeli protesters sometimes clash. It is empty. I breathe a sigh of relief.
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