Saturdays in the Sud-Ouest: What to do in this walkable (and boat-able) Montreal borough

Suggestions for a fun, choose-your-own-adventure day (or entire weekend) in the Sud-Ouest borough.

There’s nothing like summer in the city — and more specifically, nothing like summer in the Sud-Ouest.

My weekend days usually begin with no clear plans, but end up being some of my favourite when wandering aimlessly around the borough. It’s brimming with life: locals and visitors alike flock to the Atwater Market; cyclists, runners and families with strollers share the paths along the canal; and cafés are full of friends meeting up after a long week.

Special events are sprinkled throughout the summer in the borough, and you may just stumble upon one by accident. But even when nothing out of the ordinary is going on, there’s always something to do.

Here are some suggestions for a fun, choose-your-own-adventure day (or entire weekend) in the Sud-Ouest, in no particular order:

Coffee at Lili & Oli

Hands down the best coffee in the Sud-Ouest. Apologies to competitors. Can’t beat the atmosphere in either location: Little Burgundy (2713 Notre-Dame St. W) or Verdun (4554 Wellington St.), though the former — the original Lili — deserves a special shoutout.

If I’m too lazy to venture all the way to Lili, I’ll usually opt for Ma Bicyclette, a café on the canal (2727 St-Patrick St.) with a beautiful outdoor space and — despite my earlier comment about competitors — good coffee.

Breakfast at Quoi de N’Oeuf

I’m as into the hyper-trendy brunch spots as the next Montreal millennial, but I’m also extremely impatient. So, most of the time, I opt for something a little more classic and accessible: Resto Quoi de N’Oeuf (2745 Notre-Dame St. W). The menu is enormous, so there’s something for everyone (including several options for vegetarians).

If I’m willing to risk a bit of a lineup, I’ll usually go for L’Avenue (3612 Notre-Dame St. W) or Foiegwa (3001 Notre-Dame St. W).

Swing by the Atwater Market

People sit at picnic tables under a structure at the Atwater Market food court. Restaurants Falafel Yoni and Satay Bros are in the background.
People have lunch at the Atwater Market food court on Wednesday, July 31, 2024.Photo by Pierre Obendrauf /Montreal Gazette

You don’t even have to buy anything — just a stroll through the fruits/veggies/flowers sections always injects the will to live directly into my veins. But if you are feeling spendy, there are some decent discounts on cheeses that I find hard to ignore and a ton of other local goodies to choose from at the many stores/stands there. I’m a big fan of Les douceurs du marché, a grocery store that feels like something out of a storybook.

Rent a boat or paddle board on the canal

an electric boat is seen in the left side of the frame, with two swan paddle boats in the bottom right.
A group tours along in a battery powered boat from H2O Adventures on the Lachine Canal.Photo by Dave Sidaway /Montreal Gazette files

Every time I’ve rented a boat at H2O Adventures (2985b St-Patrick St.) it’s been on a whim, and ended up being so incredibly fun. There are electric boats, paddle boats, canoes, kayaks and paddle boards. Prices vary depending on the type of boat and the length of the rental. Tip? Head upstream on your way out so the current helps you out on your way back in.

Ice cream at Dalla Rose

A man poses behind the window of an ice cream store called Dalla Rose, cone in hand.
Dalla Rose owner Nick Rosati by the window of the shop on Wednesday July 31, 2024.Photo by Pierre Obendrauf /Montreal Gazette

One thing I love about Montreal is our commitment to supporting local. Dalla Rose (4609 Notre-Dame St. W) always has a lineup down the street, whereas a competitor across the street — a chain — does not.

Check out Marché Underground

Marché Underground (3731 Notre-Dame St. W) is rooms upon rooms upon rooms of vintage items — like something out of a dream. The first time I went, I didn’t realize the store extended beyond the locale that gives onto the street — so look for the door at the back of the main space that leads into a hallway.

There’s vintage clothing, trinkets, furniture, posters — you name it. Odds are you’ll be leaving with something.

Visit St-Henri bookstore

A bookstore is seen from the front entrance. There's a closeup of books on a table in the foreground and books on shelves in the background.
Librairie St-Henri Books is a cute indie bookstore in St-Henri.Photo by Pierre Obendrauf /Montreal Gazette

Across the street from Dalla Rose is Librairie St-Henri Books (4622 Notre Dame St. W), an indie shop that has almost always had the book I was looking for. And if they didn’t, they were able to order it for me.

In addition to books, the shop sells merch, greeting cards, candles and other fun stuff. It often hosts events with authors.

Get a drink at Canal Lounge

A canal boat is seen docked on the Lachine Canal. Two women are sitting on top, drinking cocktails. A pedestrian bridge is visible in the background.
Emily Applebaum and her mother, Jane Foyle, right, enjoy an evening cocktail together on the roof of the Canal Lounge.Photo by Allen McInnis /Montreal Gazette files

Grab a bite to go at Lulu

Did someone say authentic Lebanese? Lulu Épicerie (2507 Notre-Dame St. W) is my go-to for a quick bite when I’m on the go. If it’s before 3 p.m., I usually get an all-dressed za’atar bread with labneh. If it’s later, I get the batata sandwich, which is basically fries and garlic sauce in a pita (you read that right).

Catch a black and white movie at Film Noir au Canal

I’ve actually never gone to one of these, despite wanting to for years. Every Sunday at 7 p.m. through Aug. 18, you can catch a cult crime film outdoors on the Lachine Canal at Square St-Patrick (1335 St-Patrick St.).

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